Berlin beyond the postcard

Teufelsberg — the abandoned NSA listening station on a WWII rubble hill. Ninety minutes of graffiti domes and forest views, and you'll wonder why it isn't mobbed.

Tempelhofer Feld at golden hour — bring a picnic and join half of Neukölln on the runway of a dead airport.

Krumme Lanke & Schlachtensee — S1 to lake swimming that feels hours from the city. May–September.

Klunkerkranich — rooftop garden bar on top of a Neukölln shopping-mall car park. Enter through the parking garage, trust us.

Timing tactic: the big sights (Museum Island, East Side Gallery) before 09:30, hidden gems in the afternoon, and never plan indoor things for a sunny Saturday — the whole city will be outside.